Installing a Heavy Duty Split Foot Seat on Workbench E: Step-by-Step

First, clear the area around your workbench. You'll need enough space to flip the bench onto its side (or even upside down) to access the bottom rails. If your bench is already assembled, remove any accessories like shelves or tool hooks to lighten it up—this will make maneuvering easier and prevent damage.

Next, inspect the bottom of the bench. Workbench E's frame is made of sturdy aluminum profile , which is lightweight but strong. Look for the base rails—these are the horizontal bars running along the bottom of the four legs (or the perimeter of the frame, depending on the design). These rails are where we'll mount the foot seats. Wipe them clean with a dry cloth to remove dust or debris; this ensures the bolts will seat tightly and prevents rust later on.

If your workspace floor is uneven, now's a good time to note the "high spots." Place the spirit level on the workbench's top surface (before moving it) to see which corners might need extra adjustment. Jotting this down will save time later when leveling the bench.

Now, carefully flip the workbench onto its side or upside down. If you're working alone, lean it against a wall for support—safety first! You should now see the bottom rails clearly. Each Heavy Duty Split Foot Seat has two mounting holes; these will align with holes in the base rail.

Take one foot seat and hold it against the base rail, near the corner of the bench. The "split" part of the seat should face downward (this is the part that touches the floor). The goal is to position each seat so that it's centered on the rail and as close to the corner as possible without overlapping with the leg. Use your measuring tape to ensure consistency: measure the distance from the end of the rail to the first mounting hole on each seat—aim for 5-7cm (2-3 inches) from the corner. This ensures even weight distribution.

Once you're happy with the position, mark the mounting holes with a pencil. If your bench has pre-drilled holes, align the seat's holes with these marks. If not, use the seat as a template: hold it steady and mark through the holes onto the rail. Repeat this for all four corners.

If your Workbench E doesn't have pre-drilled holes, it's time to drill. Use a 8mm drill bit (or the size that matches your bolts) and a cordless drill. Clamp the rail lightly to a work surface if possible to prevent it from moving while drilling—this keeps the hole straight and clean.

Drill slowly at first to avoid slipping, then increase speed once the bit catches. Once all holes are drilled, deburr the edges with a file or sandpaper—sharp metal edges can cut your hands later or damage the bolts. Wipe away metal shavings with a cloth to keep them from getting stuck in the threads.

If your bench does have pre-drilled holes, skip to Step 4—you're ahead of the game!

Now comes the fun part: securing the foot seats. Grab your bolts, washers, and hex wrench. For each foot seat, ｉｎｓｅｒｔ a bolt through a flat washer, then through the foot seat's mounting hole, then through the rail's hole. On the other side of the rail, add a lock washer and a nut (if the rail is hollow) or tighten the bolt directly into a threaded hole (if the rail has pre-tapped threads).

Hand-tighten the bolts first—this lets you adjust the seat's position if needed. Once all four seats are loosely attached, double-check their alignment: are they all the same distance from the corners? Do the split parts face downward? If everything looks good, grab the hex wrench and start tightening. Turn each bolt a quarter-turn at a time, alternating between the two bolts on each seat (like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel). This ensures even pressure and prevents the seat from warping.

If you're using thread locker, apply a small ｄｒｏｐ to the bolt threads before tightening—this keeps them from loosening over time, especially if the bench vibrates during use. Tighten until the bolt head is snug against the washer, but don't overdo it—stripping the threads in the aluminum rail is easy, and aluminum doesn't "heal" like steel. A good rule: tighten until you feel resistance, then give it a gentle extra twist.

With all four foot seats attached, carefully flip the workbench back onto its feet. Enlist a helper if the bench is heavy—aluminum is lighter than steel, but Workbench E still isn't a feather! Once it's upright, place the spirit level on the top surface, both front-to-back and side-to-side. What do you see?

If the bubble is centered, great—you're done with leveling! If not, the Heavy Duty Split Foot Seat has a trick up its sleeve: most models have an adjustable base (the "split" part) that can be (fine-tuned) by turning a small screw or nut. Use a wrench to turn the adjustment on the low corners—this raises that side of the bench until the bubble centers. Go slowly here; a little adjustment goes a long way.

Once level, press down firmly on each corner of the bench. It should feel solid, with no rocking. If it still wobbles, check if the bolts are tight or if the foot seats are sitting flat on the floor. Sometimes, a small pebble or dust ball under a seat can cause issues—wipe the floor under each seat to ensure a clean contact point.

Now for the moment of truth: load testing. Grab a heavy object—a toolbox, a stack of metal sheets, or even a few bricks—and place it on the bench. Start in the center, then move it to each corner. The bench should stay steady, no creaking or shifting. If it does shift, double-check the bolts and leveling. Remember, Workbench E is designed for daily use, so this test ensures it can handle your typical workload.

While you're at it, slide a piece of paper under each foot seat. If it slides easily, the seat is sitting flat; if it catches, the seat might be tilted. A quick tweak to the adjustment screw should fix that. You want the paper to slide smoothly—this means the seat is evenly distributing weight.